Saturday, December 20, 2008

How to sew a Dirndl - Part II The Kittel

Welcome back :)
The Kittel for the Dirndldress is really easy to make. For a Dirndl that's about the length of your ankle, you start with 2m of 1,40m wide fabric. Then you cut this in half (you should have two 1m pieces of 1,40m wide fabric now) and sew it together on the selvages. If your fabric has a pattern on it like mine does, of course you should match those patterns up. By now, you should have a rectangle of 1m x 2,80m. I don't have a picture of this ... a piece of fabric this large is really difficult to photograph, you likely wouldn't see anything anyway.
Next, the so called Hansl is used:

This is just a stripe of checked fabric, the cheques are about 0,5cm x 1cm. Now you sew the Hansl on one of the long edges of your Kittel, starting and ending about 30-40 cm from the corner (depens on your size - the larger you are, the smaller the distance to the corner). It should now look like this:

For sewing, just use a zig-zag-stitch (or a serger, if you own one). Also zig-zag around the edge of the Hansl that isn't joined to the Dirndl, this kind of fabric frays quite a lot.
Next, we're going to sew a bag. Yes, a bag. And quite a big one, too :)
Cut out 2 pieces that look like this (the exact shape isn't really important, the "bottleneck" should be about 15cm):

Now we cut a slit about 5 cm away from the edge of the Hansl, and 5 cm from the top edge of the skirt: (in the picture, the slit is between the pins)

Pin the first bag-piece to the Kittel along the slit (right sides facing each other) and sew it:

Do the same with the second bag-piece and pull them to the left side of the skirt.
Now, make little "darts" next to the slit in the skirt:

Finally, sew the bag-pieces together and zig-zag the seam-allowances (you could use a serger here, as well.):

Well done now, the skirt is almost finished :) I admit, though, that the next step is really time-consuming. You may have wondered what the Hansl is for ... well, the mystery is ready to be unveiled ...
The back and sides of the Kittel are folded very closely to fit it to the bodice. In order for these tiny folds to be regular, we use the Hansl. Take a long piece of button-hole thread and thread it through the checks. I let a picture speak for me here:

Make sure that the checks of the Hansl and any pattern on the fabric are properly aligned!
Make 8 rows of this.
As a teaser, I'll show you what the Hansl looks like on a finished Dirndl:
On the left side:

and on the right side:

Okay, the Kittel is done! (except for the seam, of course, but we'll do this when the Leib and Kittel are joined)

8 Kommentare:

  1. Hello Bettina, meine Frau haette gern eine komplette Dirndldress naehen für meine Tochter (sie wird eine bi-lingual school besuchen) aber Sie hat das perfekte Schnittmuster noch nicht gefunden. Könntest Du mal so lieb sein -wenn das möglich ist - Schnittmuster für die Kleidung zuschicken?
    Danke im Voraus

  2. Hallo Laszlo,

    ich kann dir leider keinen Schnitt zuschicken: Der Schnitt, den ich verwende ist ein Maßschnitt, der nach meinen Maßen von einer Trachtenschneiderin erstellt wurde. Der passt sicher keinem anderen.
    Es erscheint aber einmal im Jahr die Dirndlrevue, da sind ganz viele Schnitte drin. Google doch mal danach!
    Liebe Grüße,

  3. Hello :)
    what about the bottom of this skirt? Do i have to cut anything there? or just sew?



  4. Hello:)

    Please help me I need instructions on how to make those nice handmade decorations on dirndl bodices. Thanks

    1. I found instructions at:

  5. Hi,

    I would like to sew a dress like yours but can't find the fabric used for making the hansl. Where can I buy it online and what is it called. I live in Sweden currently. Thanks.

  6. Hi I'm sorry if I'm being a little slow here but I can't for the life understand the point of the 'bag'?? (White with pink pattern on it)

    1. Hi Scribe,
      the purpose of the bag is just to have a pocket in your skirt where you can store your keys, cell phone, ...