Thursday, April 30, 2015

Jersey Summer Dress - Pt. 2: muslin, alterations & lining choice

Apart from the fashion fabric, which I showed you in the last post, I want to line the dress. Although it should be possible to make this dress without a lining, I prefer to insert it. The rayon jersey has very nice drape, which is great for the skirt of the dress, but for the bodice I would like it to be a little bit more stable and with more structure.

There are different options for the lining fabric:

  • woven lining: The pattern is written for woven fabric, so theoretically I could use woven lining fabrics, which is available in a huge selection of materials, ranging from polyester to silk. However, I don't want to loose the comfiness of the jersey fabric, so I will not go in that direction.
  • knit lining: This would be sort of the obvious choice, however, as far as I know, knit linings are only available as polyester. The rayon fashion fabric will be very comfortable to wear, also at higher temperatures, and I don't want to loose this by using a poly lining.
  • rayon jersey: This will be my lining of choice - I'll simply use another rayon jersey. It has similar properties as the fashion fabric, is stretchy, comfortable to wear and will still provide some added stability.
Because the pattern is made for woven fabric and not knits, I muslin was a definite must. I used a simple white rayon jersey for both the fashion fabric and lining in the test run.

Due to the stretch of the fabric, I had to alter quite a bit. I took out 1.5 cm in each side seam, as well as 3 cm in the length of the bodice. The pattern comes with two alterations lines for the length: one in the armhole region, and one between the bust and the waistline. I split the adjustment and took out 1 cm at the armhole and 2 cm above the waist.
In the back bodice, I took out another 1 cm at the center back, tapering to nothing towards the side seam.

This is the muslin with all the alterations pinned in place on my dressform:

I'm quite happy with the fit, and also with the fabric choice - the dress will be incredibly comfortable to wear!

Up next: Cutting & bodice construction!

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