Friday, September 4, 2015

Burda 10/2008 #136: Men's linen pants - cutting and welt pockets

Here in Austria, we had the hottest summer ever recorded in history - so many days with temperatures higher than 30°C (86°F) have never happened here before. This also had quite an impact on our outfits!

J asked me to make him a garment - linen pants! This was quite an adventure for myself, as I've never made menswear (or pants, for that matter) before ... but you know me, I'm always up for a challenge!! I browsed through my collection of Burda magazines, and found a suitable pattern in the october 2008 issue. Pattern 136 is a pair of men's trousers with welt pockets and a fly zip closure:

Source: Burdastyle

I have to tell you that I'm in love with linen. Growing up in a part of Austria where the production of this fabric has a very long tradition, I was surrounded by it from childhood on. Check out this weaving mill for example! Anyway, my mom has a huge collection of all sorts of linen fabrics, and so I asked her for a piece of white linen suitable for men's trousers (all you english native speakers: could anyone of you explain to me the difference between trousers and pants? I'm lost). She came up with a wonderful fabric, and I started going.

Being a newbie to both the sewing of pants and menswear, I did a muslin first.

The model refused to wear it online - I can't imagine why, it's made out of such a lovely fabric ;-) He did actually wear it in public to a family garden party - brave young man!
You'll have to believe me that the muslin fit quite well, I just had to shorten the crotch length by about 1.5 centimeters.

Because I didn't have too much of the fabric available, I cut the pattern pieces with only 1 cm of seam allowance.

After cutting, I used tailor's tacks to transfer the markings for the darts and pockets to both sides of the fabric:

I sewed the darts, and made the welt pockets - and I have to tell you, I jused love love love working with linen. It's just such a great fabric, not flimsy and stretchy and slippery, but just a joy to sew.

The pocket bags on the inside are finished with zagzag.

So much for today - stay tuned for the rest of the pants post!

2 Kommentare:

  1. Very nice. Your welt pocket looks great! I'm in the middle of making some pants for myself, and it is not going so well... :-)

  2. I'm absolutely clueless when it comes to making or fitting pants, thank god these didn't make any problems!