Thursday, April 30, 2015

Jersey Summer Dress - Pt. 2: muslin, alterations & lining choice

Apart from the fashion fabric, which I showed you in the last post, I want to line the dress. Although it should be possible to make this dress without a lining, I prefer to insert it. The rayon jersey has very nice drape, which is great for the skirt of the dress, but for the bodice I would like it to be a little bit more stable and with more structure.

There are different options for the lining fabric:

  • woven lining: The pattern is written for woven fabric, so theoretically I could use woven lining fabrics, which is available in a huge selection of materials, ranging from polyester to silk. However, I don't want to loose the comfiness of the jersey fabric, so I will not go in that direction.
  • knit lining: This would be sort of the obvious choice, however, as far as I know, knit linings are only available as polyester. The rayon fashion fabric will be very comfortable to wear, also at higher temperatures, and I don't want to loose this by using a poly lining.
  • rayon jersey: This will be my lining of choice - I'll simply use another rayon jersey. It has similar properties as the fashion fabric, is stretchy, comfortable to wear and will still provide some added stability.
Because the pattern is made for woven fabric and not knits, I muslin was a definite must. I used a simple white rayon jersey for both the fashion fabric and lining in the test run.

Due to the stretch of the fabric, I had to alter quite a bit. I took out 1.5 cm in each side seam, as well as 3 cm in the length of the bodice. The pattern comes with two alterations lines for the length: one in the armhole region, and one between the bust and the waistline. I split the adjustment and took out 1 cm at the armhole and 2 cm above the waist.
In the back bodice, I took out another 1 cm at the center back, tapering to nothing towards the side seam.

This is the muslin with all the alterations pinned in place on my dressform:

I'm quite happy with the fit, and also with the fabric choice - the dress will be incredibly comfortable to wear!

Up next: Cutting & bodice construction!

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Vogue Patterns 1027: DKNY Knit Wrap Dress

I'm in love with knit dresses. And I adore wrap dresses. So Vogue 1027 seems like the perfect pattern for me.

The pattern is form the Vogue designer line, in this case it's a pattern by DKNY:


The fabric is a light blue knit, which is a bit heavier than what would suit the pattern best. Still, I like the colour a lot and it was a steal at the local fabric outlet.

I'm quite new to working with knits, and I don't own a serger. I stitched the seams with a narrow zig-zag, and finished the seam allowances by stitching a second time about 5 mm next to the seam. The fabric doesn't fray at all, so this should be fine.


The neckline and hem were stitched with a twin needle.

Here are the pictures of the finished dress:


What I really like about this dress are the side seam pockets. They are really big and provide a lot of space without disturbing the shape of the dress becuase they are hidden in the full skirt.

And the best thing about the dress: it goes perfectly with my blue heels :-D

I really love this pattern, and I will definitely sew this again!

Jersey Summer Dress - Burda 7260

J and I are invited to two weddings this spring, and although I have a few wearable options in my closet, I decided to make a new dress for these occasions.

I was inspired by this gorgeous dress that Fran posted a couple of weeks ago:

Source: Nordstrom

Looking for a pattern, I found Burda 7260, which comes in two different lengths:


Combining the collar of the B version with the length of the A version comes very close to what I imagined.

The pattern suggests Chiffon, Georgette or Crepe the Chine. However, when I went fabric shopping, I ended up with a wonderful printed italian rayon jersey ...

Tthe drape of the jersey will be okay, but it's very flimsy and stretchy, and I have no idea how the pattern will behave when made up in a knit fabric.

When dealing with a border print fabric, there are difficult choices to make ... which part of the fabric goes where on the finished dress?

After some draping on Hannah the dressform, I decided for an arrangement like this:

The print is placed at the hem. At the waistline, the color gradient has changed from almost white to turquoise. From the waistline upwards, the fabric is arranged the other way around - going from turquoise to white-ish.

I've already made a muslin and fitted the pattern, so stay tuned for the next post.


Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Winter comeback?

Because we had a comeback of winter in the last couple of days, I want to share one of my winter knitting projects with you.

Already last winter I made a wonderful hat for myself. It's made out of Álafoss Lopi, which is wool that comes from iclenadic sheep. And what can I say, my other half liked it so much that he wanted one for himself:

The pattern is available via ravelry, and has some really interesting details. I especially like the braided edge of the hat and ear flap:

I added fleece lining to the hat to make it even warmer and more wind proof. Also, it protects from the scratchyness of the wool.

We both love our hats - still, let's hope we won't be needing them for next couple of months!

See you soon,


ETA: J pointed out that not only did he ask for the hat, he also suggested a significant improvement: the fleece lining (and as much as it hurts me to confess it: you were right ;-) )